Some MyVu Crystals are experiencing a white haze in video or where the whole screen turns white. Its an error with the LCD matrix’s being over driven, why is it over driven? Bad engineering or bad capacitors could be the culprit, but I don’t know for certain. But I do have a simple fix.

Things you will need:

(6) 1k ohm resistors (no pun), 1/4 watt. I used 1/2w because that’s what I had.
(2) 100 to 0 ohm variable resistors
(1) unit of fair soldering skills, no smd/smt soldering!

Okay, here is what I did. You can do this procedure at any place along the wires going to the headset. I did mine at the end of the wire near the display units. Do this for both sides, left and right displays/cables.

1. Check battery voltage is good, 3.7v. If not, replace it. (candy bar cell phone batteries fit good)
2. Place a variable resistor inline on 9V supply to the LCD’s; the plum colored wire, not the light purple or lavender…it is tough to see, see my pics. Set the resistance to 80 Ohms. This will be adjusted finely later.
3. Place a 1k Ohm on each RGB wires shunted to ground. Do this for the mauve,  yellow and orange wires. (tip: instead of cutting the insulation off these wires, just burn it off with a lighter a couple seconds)
4. Test, adjust variable resistor. The picture might look grainy at first but as voltage goes up it will get sharper. Start at 80 ohms and go towards 0 until you get a clear picture and no white washing. My final numbers on the variable resistor: 71ohms/9.01input/8.10 output, yours could be as low as 10 ohms.
5. Test for over an hour. If it eventually whites out, turn off unit to cool down for 10 minutes, then turn down the voltage with the variable resistor. Retest.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the other LCD.

Now this is the fix for the blue screen/static mod.

1. Open the “pendant”, pull out the board.
2. Place a jumper across pads TP23 and TP33.
3. Done.

Thanks to the users at RCgroups.com for help with this